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Thread starter panda8 Start date Oct 30, Low humming sound at 80 cruising. Anyone experience this? Beside changing tyres. After changing both, car runs like butter. Could be a combination of road plus tyres. I have this low humming sound on certain cement road after I changed tyres. Otherwise it is wheel bearing And need to change to an adjustable camber?

If due to toe-in or toe-out, alighment will solve this? If due to wheel bearings, unless badly worn out, otherwise difficult to check unless got to dismantle the brake units? Quite puzzled that physically the tyre don't look that worn out but the noise at higher speed gets quite bearably loud. Trying to gather more information first as going to most TS they usually prefers to recommend change the tyre. Problem solved as far as they see it. Last edited by a moderator: Oct 30, Run your hand on the tyre threads in one direction then the other direction. If one direction not smooth the likely there's feathering.

Feathered tyres are noisy and it's caused by excessive toe out. Camber can be changed slightly by adjusting those nuts on top of the strut but it's just a weeny bit. If the noise persists in all road surfaces grey, black etc then look at the bearings. If it's wheel bearing just hoist the car and spin the rims and listen or feel the springs while doing it. Look for noise and vibrations. And while driving, if the noise stops when turning in certain direction then only one of the wheel bearings on that axle is having issues.

Wheel bearing noise increases with speed. This is a shot from the final inning of the same game, now well past sunset with only the stadium lighting providing illumination. In this case, I adjusted the automatic exposure to get a higher shutter speed using exposure compensation.

What about day games? These three examples give us a range of 6 to For that, we need to get into hardware.

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There are a lot of choices for cameras and lenses to use at baseball games. While a good photographer can get good photographs of some kind with any camera, that often comes from understanding the limitations of the equipment and working with its strengths. That also means that, to get the best results, you will need the right tool for the job. In this case, that means a full-frame SLR and a long telephoto lens with a wide aperture.

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These are the focal lengths it takes to frame the action from the typical distance of the camera well. The downsides of these lenses are significant though. They typically weigh between 5 and 10 pounds, which is more than most people can handhold for extended periods of time.

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That plus the sheer size of these lenses 8 to 14 inches could cause some problems with the people around you or the stadium staff most stadiums prohibit professional equipment in the seating area, and these lenses are hard to pass off as anything but. These are light enough to handhold and can still get you close enough to get decent action shots.

With a 1. This puts you at a one-stop disadvantage compared to the pro option, but it makes more sense for most people. The other end of the equation is the camera and it goes about the same as the lenses. These cameras have the highest quality sensors and processing, including high frame rates, extensive video options, and the ability to produce usable images at very high ISOs.

The next step down is the family of mid-sized full-frame SLRs , represented by the 5D series in the Canon line. ISO is reasonable at this level, with the possibility of using higher ISOs as well with diminishing results. Below that is an extremely wide range of APS-C sensor cameras.

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Combine this with increased pixel density most of these cameras have about the same number of pixels as their full-frame counterparts in less than half the space and you get less impressive low-light performance. ISO should be usable, but things can get iffy from there. With the middle tier as our reference, we can get back to the numbers and see what performance we can reasonably expect.

So what will get us there? This should be possible with any set of equipment that can reasonably capture baseball action. It only gets worse from there, as this ISO table shows.

Low humming sound when cruising at 80+ kph

The problem with that is that sunlight can cause glare and harsh shadows. Increase the distance and it might not matter anymore because you could have a hard time even seeing the ball. Website URL.


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Notify me of follow-up comments by email. Notify me of new posts by email. The light and camera it takes to freeze the action Last time , we looked at how to snap a picture with the ball over home plate, which turned out to be much easier than the numbers would suggest. Image is from a Canon 5D Mk. II 21 megapixels, x Distance from subject is approximately feet. Offset between focal plane and plane of motion is approximately 7 degrees. Skip ahead to camera discussion Skip ahead to conclusions The main factors that control how bright an image comes out are shutter speed, aperture, and ISO speed.